And then Rockefeller had swum for shore and vanished. One moment his boat was being tossed by the waves, just as ours was, and the next he and his Dutch companion were clinging to an overturned hull. Nelson Rockefeller, seven months into the adventure of a lifetime that had transformed him from clean-cut student to bearded photographer and art collector. He was 23 years old, the privileged son of New York Gov. © The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource, NY

Rockefeller was most impressed by the Asmat people’s ancestor poles, or bisj-elaborate, sexually suggestive signs that a death had yet to be avenged. If Michael Rockefeller had had a radio when his catamaran overturned in this exact spot in 1961, he never would have disappeared. I hadn’t wanted to bring the phone, but at the last minute I’d thought how stupid it would be to die for want of a call. I crawled forward, reached under a plastic tarp and fumbled blindly in my duffel for the Ziploc bag holding my satellite phone, and slipped it into my pocket. We were crossing the mouth of the Betsj River, a turbulent place of incoming tide and outrushing water, when the waves slammed and our 30-foot longboat rolled.

It is a world of satiny, knee-deep mud and mangrove swamps stretching inland, a great hydroponic terrarium. Here it’s hard to know where the water begins and the land ends, as the Arafura Sea’s 15-foot tides inundate the coast of southwest New Guinea, an invisible swelling that daily slides into this flat swamp and pushes hard against great outflowing rivers. In its 10,000 square miles, there is but one airstrip, and outside of the main “city” of Agats, there isn’t a single cell tower. There’s still not a single road or automobile. Until 50 years ago, there were no wheels here. Hornbills with five-inch beaks and blue necks.Īnd secrets, spirits, laws and customs, born of men and women who have been walled off by ocean, mountains, mud and jungle for longer than anyone knows. There are flocks of brilliant red-and-green parrots. Crocodiles 15 feet long prowl their banks, and jet-black iguanas sun on uprooted trees. And sago palm, whose pith can be pounded into a white starch and which hosts the larvae of the Capricorn beetle, both key sources of nutrition. In the jungle there are wild pig, the furry, opossumlike cuscus, and the ostrichlike cassowary. It’s teeming with shrimp and crabs and fish and clams. Everything you could possibly need is here. President and Fellows of Harvard University Peabody Museum of Archeology and Ethnology Īsmat is, in its way, a perfect place.

The Baliem Valley was a “magnificent vastness” in Rockefeller’s eyes, and its people were “emotionallly expressive.” But Asmat proved to be “more remote country than what I have ever seen.”

Sisters of battle dawn of war